Mt Kenya Rock Climbing (7 day)

The easiest routes to the highest peaks, Batian and Nelion, are IV (UIAA grading). Few parties reach Batian summit and descend before nightfall. There are more than 25 routes to the main summits of which 8 are ice routes concentrated on the south and west sides. There is little scope for new routes. 90% of visiting climbers underestimate Mt. Kenya and it is unlikely that more than one route to the summits will be made in any one visit to the mountain. There are good shorter climbs on outlying smaller peaks.

Climbers particularly should take special note of changes to climbing routes due to the shrinking glacier cover. Some climbs have seriously changed.

SEASONS:
Although Mt. Kenya is situated on the equator it has very definite summer and winter conditions on its north and south faces. The two rainy seasons (around mid March to June and October to December) can make the approach difficult and the rock routes wet or verglassed. Attention should therefore be paid to choosing the correct time to climb the mountain. Rock routes on the south side are usually in condition from end of December to mid March and on the north side from late June to mid-October. Ice routes are normally in condition during the same periods given above but on the opposite face of the mountain. East facing rock routes tend to be free of ice during both dry periods.

Climbers particularly should take special note of changes to climbing routes due to the shrinking glacier cover. Some climbs have seriously changed.

Go To Mount Kenya has qualified professional guides who are trained to lead on rock climbing expeditions to Batian and Nelion on Mount Kenya. The guides have undergone training with NOLS Africa.

8 DAY ROCK CLIMBING VIA SIRIMON - CHOGORIA ROUTE USING THE NORTH FACE STANDARD ROUTE.

This North Face itinerary is suitable for the summer to fall climbing season when the North Face of the peak is relatively snow-free and climbing conditions are best. Rock Grade IV+. 10 Hours to Batian.

Day 1: Nairobi - Nanyuki - Old Moses Camp (3400 M)

After pick up we drive North, along the Western side of Mt Kenya crossing the Equator en route to Nanyuki town for lunch. After lunch a further drive takes us to the Sirimon Park gate (2660m). From the gate, we trek up through magnificent montane forest, bamboo and giant heather zone before reaching the high altitude moorland and to our first hut (Old Moses camp) for dinner and overnight. This is a gentle trek that takes 3 - 4 hrs gaining an elevation of 680m.

Day 2: Old Moses - Shipton Camp (4236m)

Early morning start through Ontulili River up the spectacular Mackinders valley via Liki North ridge with picnic lunch en route arriving in Shipton camp in 7 hrs. This camp is a surreal setting below the towering peaks and glacier. Resident population is of Rock Hyrax and sunbirds. Dinner and overnight at the camp.

Day 3: Shipton - Mackinder's Camp (4200m)

For better acclimatization we kick off our peak circuit trek stretching 2 days. Today we go anticlockwise, first through Hausberg Col at 4591m, and then pass between Oblong and Hausberg Tarns. Then we climb up to Nanyuki and Two Tarns before descending to Mackinder's Camp on the South Western side of the peak, at about 4300 meters for dinner and overnight.

Day 4: Mackinder's Camp - Point Lenana (4985m) - Shipton's Camp (4236m)

We rise early and continue our trek up to Top Hut (Austrian Hut) 4800m. From this Hut we make a final short ascent of Point Lenana, 4985m,. Point Lenana is the common trekker's Mount Kenya " Summit ". From this summit we then go straight down the Northwest side back to Shipton's Camp, passing Harris Tarn.

Day 5: Shipton's Camp.

(Hiking - about day) On our 5th day we have the option of either taking a rest day or of climbing a short route on either Point Peter or Point Dutton. In either case we also prepare for the climb of Batian the following morning.

Day 6: Shipton - Batian (5199m) - Shipton (CLIMBING DAY)

Ascent of Batian by the North Face Standard Route. Starting in the early morning dark, usually between 4 and 5 am, we may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp. The route initially follows a wide couloir which we ascend for some 7 pitches, never harder than 5.7. A bit of easy scrambling brings us to the Amphitheater a small basin of easy rock part way up the route. Ideally we arrive here by about 7:30 or thereabouts, enjoying a late "breakfast" and a short break. Above this is the crux of the route, Firmin's Tower. There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, but all in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and, finally, the west ridge. From this point, we continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton's Notch, a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the airy summit of BATIAN..!!!

We descend by the same route. The lower amphitheater may be reached by direct abseils from Firmin's Tower. Variation: Firmin's Tower may be avoided on the right by traversing along a ledge above the Northey Glacier and then climbing a short wall to easier ground and the top of the tower. Difficult if icy. If we maintain a good pace we can hopefully hit Shipton's Camp before evening dusk.

Day 7: Shipton' s Camp - Meru Mt Kenya Bandas Lodge

After breakfast our trek out begins and we hike down by the Scenic Chogoria Route . Our trek out begins with a climb up to Simba Col (where porters once swore they saw a lion, hence the name) then a quick descent to the halls Tarns. From here we follow the backbone of a ridge, overlooking the spectacular Gorges Valley . Loosing elevation fast we leave the high moorlands and enter into the forest belt that surrounds Mount Kenya . As we approach the cabins of Meru Mount Kenya Bandas (our destination for the night) we are most likely to spot Cape buffalo, Bush Buck, and tracks of other wild animals.

The Bandas are a welcome luxury!. With hot showers, a fine evening log fire, a BED!, without mentioning a cold beer!.

Day 8: Bandas Lodge - Chogoria - Nairobi / other.

After breakfast we hike the first hour or so enjoying the bamboo forest. We often see Elephant tracks, and signs of many other wild animals. We continue further down up to the 10 kilometer mark where we are picked up by a 4 by 4 wheel drive vehicle and continue the drive to Chogoria town and switch to another comfortable vehicle for transfer back to the Hotel / other destination.

NB: Due to the unpredictability of weather around the Summit, we sometimes allow for an extra Summit day thus extending the climb to 9 Days.

7 DAY ROCK CLIMBING USING NORMAL ROUTE VIA SIRIMON - CHOGORIA ROUTE.

The Normal Route (Description) This climb starts on the east side of the mountain with Austrian Hut as the base camp.

The climbing consists of easy to moderate grade rock climbing. (Approx. UIAA IV). It will take one full day to reach the summit of Nelion, then cross the Gate of Mists to Batian and then return to Nelion to bivvy at the Howell Hut. The second day is spent descending the route.

Day 1: Nairobi - Nanyuki - Old Moses Camp (3400 M)

After pick up we drive North, along the Western side of Mt Kenya crossing the Equator en route to Nanyuki town for lunch. After lunch a further drive takes us to the Sirimon Park gate (2660m). From the gate, we trek up through magnificent montane forest, bamboo and giant heather zone before reaching the high altitude moorland and to our first hut (Old Moses camp) for dinner and overnight. This is a gentle trek that takes 3 - 4 hrs gaining an elevation of 680m.

Day 2: Old Moses - Shipton's Camp (4236m)

Early morning start through Ontulili River up the spectacular Mackinders valley via Liki North ridge with picnic lunch en route arriving in Shipton camp in 7 hrs. This camp is a surreal setting below the towering peaks and glacier. Resident population is of Rock Hyrax and sunbirds. Dinner and overnight at the camp.

Day 3: Shipton - Mackinder's Camp (4200m)

For better acclimatization we kick off our peak circuit trek stretching 2 days. Today we go anticlockwise, first through Hausberg Col at 4591m, and then pass between Oblong and Hausberg Tarns. Then we climb up to Nanyuki and Two Tarns before descending to Mackinder's Camp on the South Western side of the peak, at about 4200 meters for dinner and overnight.

Day 4: Mackinder's Camp - Point Lenana (4985m) - Austrian Hut (4720m)

Today we continue our trek up to Top Hut (Austrian Hut) 4800m. From this Hut we make a short ascent of Point Lenana, 4985m,. Point Lenana is the common trekker's Mount Kenya " Summit ". This climb helps a lot in preparing for tomorrow's final assault of Batian.

Day 5: Austrian Hut - Nelion (5188m) - Batian (5199m)

(CLIMBING DAY) South East Face of Nelion Grade IV. 7 Hours to BATIAN Season: July - September.

From Austrian Hut, cross the Lewis Glacier then up boulders and scree. Climb the wall to a ledge at 20m. Move left into gully. Follow ledges to the right. Continue traversing right, cross a rib to the base of Mackinder's chimney, move 6m further right to a platform. Gain a crack in the wall to the right, follow this to base of One o' clock Gully at 25m. Either climb gully to top at 50m, then traverse rightwards for 50m.Or reach the same point by taking the gully for 4m, moving right and down to traverse across steep broken ground then climb two short corners to scree ledges. Now climb easy rock aiming for Baillie's Bivvy, 15m left of Mackinder's Gendarme. Cross the ridge, descend 3m, then up on easy ground (can be icy) to the base pf a wall. Climb along, left facing corner to a ledge at 35m. Up, then right to the ridge, some 5m below the foot of a steep red wall. Traverse rightwards above an Amphitheater to gain the base of a gully and follow this up. Near the top of the gully, easier rock leads the summit. Scramble along and down the ridge towards Batian; one abseil of 45m.to the Gendarme, rejoin the ridge that is followed mainly on the South side to the summit (III, one and a half hours from Nelion: Ice axe and Crampons useful) In descent, follow the same route. From the bottom of One O ‘clock Gully, two 45m. abseils reach the bottom.

Day 6: Austrian Hut - Meru Mount Kenya Bandas Lodge.

After breakfast our trek out begins and we are to hike down by the Scenic Chogoria Route . Our trek out begins with a descent to Mintos Hut. From here we follow the backbone of a ridge, overlooking the spectacular Gorges Valley . Loosing elevation fast we leave the high moorlands and enter into the forest belt that surrounds Mount Kenya . As we approach the cabins of Meru Mount Kenya Bandas (our destination for the night) we are most likely to spot Cape buffalo, Bush Buck, and tracks of other wild animals. The Bandas are a welcome luxury! With hot showers, a fine evening logs fire, a BED! Without mentioning a cold beer!

Day 7: Bandas Lodge - Chogoria - Nairobi / other.

After breakfast we hike the first hour or so enjoying the bamboo forest. We often see Elephant tracks, and signs of many other wild animals. We continue further down up to the 10 kilometer mark where we are picked up by a 4 by 4 wheel drive vehicle and continue the drive to Chogoria town and switch to another comfortable vehicle for transfer back to the Hotel / other destination.

These routes are offered only to those who have experience and knowledge of rock climbing. Climbers must provide their own equipment.

Prices- 2008

USD 50 discounts on above prices are available if providing your own equipment.