Video courtesy of Mark Aitken
The preferred route on Nelion is the MacKinders route. This is a 5th class rock route to a maximum difficulty of 5.6. There are easier sections where the party can move together, but typically, some 17 plus pitches are belayed. The descent is by the same route, with a few of the rappels taking more direct lines down the cleaner rock. This is a fun route, on generally good rock, sunny. Rock shoes are appropriate. Approach boots can be left at the base of the route. Though still long, this route is considered to be easier than the North Face Standard Route on Batian. With better rock and a sunnier position, it is also more fun.
The climbing season is usually December through March when the southeast face of the Nelion peak is relatively snow-free and climbing conditions are best.
To give you a clearer picture of the trip, kindly see below an itinerary for the entire climb.
7 Day Mt Kenya climb Chogoria - Sirimon Traverse.
Day 1: Nairobi- Mt Kenya (2,800m)
Depart from Nairobi at 0800hrs, driving through agricultural country up to Chogoria town for lunch. After lunch, we take 4x4 and drive up to the edge of the bamboo forest where we start our trek through the dense bamboo forest for a distance of 10 km up to the Mt Kenya Bandas.
Dinner and overnight at the Meru Mount Kenya Bandas (3000m)
Day 2. Mt Kenya Bandas- Lake Ellis Campsite ( 3,600m)
After breakfast and sorting of porter loads, we set off up the mountain at a nice and easy pace. A slightly longer walk via Lake Ellis gives scenic views of Mugi, Ithanguni, and the Giants Billiards Table, whilst if we follow the river near road head, upstream for about 3 km, the foreground scenery and flora is particularly beautiful.
Lunch on the banks of a stream, then it's time to cut up the left-hand hillside to our camp at about 3,600m, well away from any of the more "touristy" areas.
Day 3: Lake Ellis- Minto`s Camp. ( 4,200m)
Similar early start. Again well off the beaten track to follow a ridge up the mountain for about 3 hours to eventually join the tourist track on the normal Chogoria route at an altitude of about 4,100m. Breathtaking views over the Gorges Valley and back over towards Ithanguni and the Northern Moorlands.
Lunch is served at a small stream crossing, before continuing for a further hour to the Mintos Hut area at 4200m and our night's rest.
The afternoon is spent relaxing at camp, though a 10-minute walk to the "Temple" is well worth the effort. This is a 500ft vertical cliff that gets its name from the position visitors often adopt when peering over the edge - they look as if they are praying.
Day 4: Minto`s hut - Top hut (Austrian hut) - (4,790M).
Today we begin our trek ascending up along the foot of huge rock walls. From the top, we`ll have an excellent view of Mount Kenya. After ascending for a couple of hours you reach Tooth Col. From here you traverse until you reach the Austrian Hut. From this Hut, you make a final short ascent of Point Lenana, 4,985m. Point Lenana is the common trekker's Mount Kenya Summit. From this summit, you descend back to the Austrian hut.
Dinner and overnight at the Austrian hut.
Day 5: Austrian hut - Nelion- Batian (5,199m)
(CLIMBING DAY) southeast Face of Nelion. The climb is tough, but the view from the top sure is worth it. With a pre-dawn start, we can reach the base of the route in about an hour. Crampons are generally used to cross the small glacier and the Gate of Mist. It is not steep, but the snow is often quite firm.
It will take 5 hours to reach the summit of Nelion, then cross the Gate of Mists( 2 hrs) to Batian and then return to Nelion. Descend further to Austrian hut for overnight. The summit day is fairly long, from 10 to 12 hours for the round trip. The route has has HS/VS standard climbing and is about 19 pitches with some moving together.
Day 6: Austrian hut- Old Moses Camp (3,300m)
After breakfast descends to Shipton's camp via Simba col after which you begin a 5-hour descent via Mackinder`s valley to the Old Moses camp. The descent is gentle and it offers ample time to enjoy fascinating scenery which includes the moorlands before reaching the camp.
Dinner and overnight at the Old Moses camp.
Day 7: Old Moses - Nairobi.
After early morning breakfast, descend for 3 hours to the Sirimon Park gate to catch a vehicle and transfer back to Nairobi arriving by 16:00 Hrs.
Climbing Mount Kenya Nelion-Batian
Prices & Payments
NB: Due to the unpredictability of weather around the Summit, we sometimes allow for an extra Summit day thus extending the climb to 8 Days. However, kindly be aware that an additional day on the mountain attracts US$ 165.
You can pay now through our Pesapay Account. Please remember to specify which trek you wish to avail of.
The following items are included in prices:
- Return transfers from Nairobi to Mt Kenya (private)
- All Park fees.
- All food while on the Mountain.
- Accommodation in mountain huts/ camping where applicable.
- All guiding services
- Porter support for the climb.
Not included are:
- Personal clothing and equipment (see equipment list)
- Tips and gratuities for guides and porter (recommended to be 10 - 15% of climb costs)
- Beverages while not on the mountain
